Recently, the prices for many of JR’s rail passes have increased. Now a month into the new pricing structure, one thing is clear—travellers need to make a concerted effort to eke out enough value for it to be a meaningful purchase. Previously, JR’s passes were something that one would need a really strong reason not to buy. Now, there are many potential travel itineraries where just purchasing regular tickets is the more cost-efficient option for many visitors to Japan.

Since it’s no longer as affordable as it once was to zip around the country, many in the travel industry are starting to push slow travel and connecting with local communities. Rather than dashing from one tourism hot spot to another, this new trend is all about depth and authenticity. While major transportation nodes will continue to be important logistically, more and more people are looking to travel to the countryside, and this is especially true for those who have been to Japan before.

The shift towards slow travel and getting more off of the beaten path comes at the perfect time for Japan. Due to the dual factors of a weak yen and increases in international flights, the number of inbound tourists is as high as it has ever been. The summer months saw over 2 million tourists enter Japan causing many people to again ponder the problem of overtourism, a word we largely haven’t heard since the pre-pandemic age. With 2023 being the first autumn since 2019 that travellers can enter Japan, we can expect October and November to be very crowded.

Thankfully, much of Japan is largely still unknown to most international visitors. Outside of the mainstays, hidden gems like Yamaguchi Prefecture’s towns of Nagato and Hagi don’t draw the hordes that more well-known spots do. Thus, as a region, Setouchi is perfectly suited to meet the new needs of travellers. With ample options for people interested in culture, art, nature, etc. Setouchi appeals to a more sophisticated audience who wants to take it slow and really experience Japan.

If this is your first time hearing of Setouchi, know that this part of Japan is comprised of many of the prefectures on the western end of Honshu and the Island of Shikoku (Hyogo, Okayama, Hiroshima, Yamaguchi, Tokushima, Kagawa, and Ehime Prefectures). Tied together by the Seto Inland Sea, Setouchi is a region with a shared coastal culture that could be compared to The Mediterranean Sea. While it’s best known for its countless islands, Setouchi is also an area that is blessed with mountains and other various vistas too.

The following are some suggestions for easy add-ons either before or after Hiroshima that we think your readers might like. In the coming months, we’ll also showcase some different destinations down in prefectures on Japan’s island of Shikoku…

Shimonoseki

Yamaguchi Prefecture

Shimonoseki is the westernmost city on Japan’s main island of Honshu. As the gateway to Kyushu in the west, Shimonoseki has long been a major transportation hub in the region. Surrounded by water on three sides, the city is naturally known for its seafood, most notably pufferfish. Be sure not to miss out on some of the attractions like Tsunoshima with its ever-picturesque bridge!

Recommended Do’s: Akama Jingu, Tsunoshima Ohashi Bridge
Recommended Eats: Pufferfish Sashimi

Recommended Stays: Shunpanro

Nagato & Hagi

Yamaguchi Prefecture

Thanks to Motonosumi Shrine becoming a popular spot for Instagram shots, this part of Yamaguchi Prefecture has started to pop up on the radars of international travellers. At the same time, there is so much more to the northern portions of the prefecture. For example, Hagi was the seat of power for the powerful Mori clan for centuries. It is also known as one of Japan’s top kilns so you can shop the wares of local craftsmen and even try your hand at making some pottery. Also, the neighbouring area of Nagato is also home to some amazing hot springs in Nagato Yumoto Onsen.

Recommended Do’s: Hagiyaki Pottery Experience, Omijima Island Cruise
Recommended Eats: Soba Sushi
Recommended Stays: Hoshino Resort Kai Nagato, Ryokan Otozure

Miyajima

Hiroshima Prefecture

In a newsletter about hidden gems and slow travel, it might seem weird to include one of Hiroshima’s most popular destinations (and one that has had to implement a tax to combat overtourism). At the same time, there is a side to Hiroshima that most tourists miss—its tranquil evenings and mornings. The island is actually home to a number of posh ryokan. Moreover, there’s so much more to Miyajima than just its iconic torii. As true travel connoisseurs know, spending the night on the sacred isle and leisurely exploring it without the crowds offers the best Miyajima experience.

Recommended Do’s: Mt. Misen, Daisho-in, Momiji Valley (especially pretty during autumn)

Recommended Eats: Oysters, Fried Momiji Manju (a traditional Japanese confection in the shape of a maple leaf)

Recommended Stays: Iwaso, Sekitei

Onomichi

Hiroshima Prefecture

Hiroshima may indeed be the largest urban centre in Setouchi but you’re totally missing out if you don’t visit one of the port towns on the Seto Inland that characterize Setouchi’s collective culture. Thus, adding a stopover in Onomichi is recommended. An important port town on the Seto Inland Sea for centuries, Onomichi is also home to a charming temple walk with some truly stunning views such as the vista from Senko-ji. Additionally, Onomichi is the jumping-off point for the Shimanami Kaido, a cycling route that spans several islands, leading to Imabari in Shikoku.

Recommended Do’s: Temple Walk, Shimanami Kaido

Recommended Eats: Onomichi Ramen, Sea Bream
Recommended Stays: Ryokan Onomichi Nishiyama

Fukuyama

Hiroshima Prefecture

Located near Onomichi, Fukuyama is a city that is home to the charming Tomonoura. This port town, located on the southernmost end of the city of Fukuyama, juts out into the bay of the Seto Inland Sea. The picturesque village exudes a nostalgic vibe, transporting visitors back to a simpler age. In days past, Tomonoura flourished as a mercantile centre where sailors sought refuge while waiting for favourable tides. Tomonoura has gained popularity recently, having been featured in films like “The Wolverine” and Studio Ghibli’s “Ponyo on the Cliff”. A must-visit is the stunning Abuto Kannon.

Recommended Do’s: Tomonoura Townscape, Abuto Kannon, Fukuzen-ji

Recommended Eats: Sea bream, homeishu (alcoholic beverage that is said to help longevity)

Recommended Stays: Nipponia Tomo Port Town, Shiomachi Hotel

Okayama

Hiroshima Prefecture

For many first-time travellers to Japan, Okayama is simply a brief stopover en route to Hiroshima and the Atomic Bomb Dome. Those in the know recognize that the so-called “Sunshine Prefecture” is a treasure trove of attractions within easy reach. Near Okayama Station, landmarks like Okayama Castle and the mesmerizing Okayama Korakuen Garden await (both are especially breath-taking during autumn). Venturing further into the prefecture, you’ll find the beautiful Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter, which is always worth a visit.

Recommended Do’s: Okayama Castle, Okayama Korakuen Garden, Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter

Recommended Eats: Bara-zushi, Mamakari-zushi, Okayama’s fresh fruit,

Recommended Stays: Ryokan Kurashiki, Kurashiki Ivy Square

Logistical Tips

How to Travel in Setouchi

The essence of slow travel in Setouchi is well-complemented by the region’s accessibility via JR’s extensive rail network. For those looking to explore at a leisurely pace, several JR rail passes can be your ticket to uncovering the hidden charms of Setouchi. Notably, the Okayama–Hiroshima–Yamaguchi Area Pass and the Hiroshima & Yamaguchi Area Pass offer excellent value for travellers venturing west from Okayama to Hiroshima and beyond, over a span of five days.

While the rail network provides seamless connections to many destinations highlighted, a venture to Nagato is best done by rental car to fully embrace the scenic beauty en route. For the avid explorers, the combination of JR passes, and a short car rental can unlock an enriching journey through the tapestry of cultural, historical, and natural wonders that Setouchi has to offer. As you delve deeper into the region, each locality unveils a unique narrative, ready to be woven into your own tale of discovery in Japan’s serene heartland.